A nutshell of information about Barga, (Lucca), Tuscany, Italy.

Barga is a medieval town ( about 6000 inhabitants) of Longobard origin but with a definite Florentine flavor. The town lies on a  hilltop  (elevation 410m, 1370 ft.) in the valley of the river Serchio, also known as Garfagnana. The region is famous for its Farro grain, the food of the ancient Roman legions. This is the only part of Tuscany featuring high mountains where eagles and other birds of prey still soar. 

Untouched by mass tourism, Barga is a true gem and more than picturesque! It is the quintessential Tuscan hill town!  Its ancient,unspoiled and prosperous air seems attract the discerning and the artist. Barga is known for its artistic richness, historic monuments,  mild climate and genuine warmth of its residents.    From atop the hill, which is dominated by the Duomo, a church whose origins predate the the Middle Ages, visitors are awed by the views of the green valley of the Serchio river, the majestic Apuan Alps, renowned for their marble quarries, and the less rugged Appenines.  Nature lovers can walk in the nearby mountain woods in search of  berries and wild mushrooms. In winter, sky enthusiasts can take advantage of the facilities of several resorts just a short drive away.  

 Barga originated before  the Middle Ages as a castle surrounded by walls and entered through one of  three gates, two of which Porta Reale and Porta Macchiaia are still standing.   During the 1300's Barga became the principal outpost of the Signoria di Firenze  in the area.  The town was well known during the Middle Ages for the manufacture of silk garments, its mills powered by the immense hydraulic power of the nearby creeks,  and remained an important commercial center untill the beginning of the 20^th century.  From 1341 untill 1847 Barga was part of the Grand Duchy of Florence .  During this period,  Lucca and Pisa   waged frequent battles to conquer the wealthy town and the surrounding territory. From 1847 until the unification of Italy in 1861 Barga was part of the Duchy of Lucca, although it maintained a measure of autonomy. Today, Barga is a triving commercial and tourist center. Its natural charm enhanced by its proximity to three protected conservation areas -- the nature parks of L’Orecchiella, Alpi Apuane and  Appennino Toscano--   and the charming villas built just outside the old towns walls by returning emiges. 

Barga's hilltop, near the Duomo , is known as Castello which lies within the remains of the walls and it is  crisscrossed by cobblestone  alleys the most famous  is Via di Mezzo, and dotted with squares such as Piazza Angelio, stairs and loggias.  During July, the Festa del Castello enlivens  the town  alleys and piazze, where visitors can sample local delicacies, watch craftsmen at work, or even join in one of the local dances.        

Ther are seven ancient churches within or just outside the town walls including the majestic Duomo begun before the year 1000, which features art work by the incomparable medieval painter/sculpturer Andrea Della Robbia, and a splendid pulpit attributed to the sculptor Guido Bigiarelli da Como.   The cobblestone paved square (Arringo)  in front of the Duomo is the best vantage point for viewing breathtaking sunsets. The churchs of Barga are particularly interesting to visit during the two feast of the town's two  patron Saints S. Cristoforo (July 25) and S. Rocco (August 16) when they are decked with flowers and other decorations.

A large park divides the hilltop from the lower part of Barga known as Il Giardino .  Three bridges, one  made of stone (Ponte Vecchio), another supporting the old Aqueduct, connect the two districts.  Il Giardino is bustling with  shops, cafes, and restaurants. The villas of returning emigres are nearby, flanking  two tree-lined boulevards. Life in Il Giardino revolves around the Piazza del Cedro, named for the huge Cedar tree in its center. One of the sophisticated  cafes around the piazza is the perfect spot to relax in the shade of a pergola and sample some of the local wines.  Il Giardino comes especially alive during the three days celebration of the Feast of  San Rocco  (August 15, 16, 17) when  the streets are filled with traveling salesmen and eager shoppers.  

Barga's food shops and restaurants offer cuisine that is simple but wholesome  in the Tuscan tradition. Visitors have ample opportunity to savor some of the typical local foods that incorporate the many speciaties of the region, notably Farro, a mountain grain, the fabled Funghi Porcini, and local variety of trouts.  Chestnuts and grapes abound and there are a number of delectable cold cuts, and local cheese, to sample. Minestrone and Polenta  are just two of the many dishes that are typical of the area.

Your Base for Exploring Tuscany. 

Barga is just 30 minutes north of Lucca, a medieval city noted for its pristine ring of walls, ancient towers and medieval churches, and about 60 minutes north of Pisa,  known worldwide for its Leaning Tower, as well as many other ancient churches and monuments. Barga can be reached easily by car, train or bus.  The closest international airports are in Pisa and Florence. Helicopter service is available from the  airport of Pisa.

Florence and Siena are within 100 to150 km (60 to 90 miles) close enough for day trips by either car or train.   Smaller Tuscan towns like San Gimignano and Volterra with its Etruscan ruins, along with the renowned Chianti wine region are equally accessible. The charm and natural beauty of the Ligurian Coast, the world class shopping and dining of the Italian Riviera (Versilia), and seaside resorts like Viareggio are all within an hour's drive or less. There are also three thermal spas in the area, the most famous of which is  Bagni di Lucca, the oldest in Europe.

The Serchio valley where Barga is located, also known as Garfagnana, is rich in traditions, many of which are celebrated in the works of the great poets  Giovanni Pascoli, whose house is in nearby Castelvecchio, and Ludovico Ariosto who served as the governor of Castelnuovo di Garfagnana. Local traditions are carried on in the form of  feasts, that rotate from town to town, and historical and religious pageants, notably at Epiphany. There is a lively music season that attracts international artists and audiences of both opera (Opera Barga) and jazz  (Barga Jazz). British and American painters have found ample inspiration both in Barga and the surrounding region.  The international convention and  tourist center Hotel Il Ciocco draws visitors from around the world. You can also take advantage of two excellent large swimming centers, La Piscina Comunale  located in Barga, the other at Il Ciocco.  

Barga is the perfec location from which to explore the region's many ancient churces, strongholds, castles and fortresses, including the magnificent Fortezza delle Verrucole, just one of many testimonials of a troubled past.  Other points of local interest include the the medieval Ponte del Diavolo (Devil's Bridge) connecting the two shores of the Serchio river.  

For lover of the outdoors, the area offers the lure of several trekking excursions surrounded by unspoiled natural beauty. In the Apuan Alps, famed for their marble quarries, trekkers can visit Monte Forato noted for   a natural stone arch spanning  30 m (100ft), and  the rugged mountains of the Pania.   The major cave Grotta del Vento is a challenge for spelunkers.  Others will be charmed by the Lake of Vagli, at the bottom of which, visible through  clear watter, the old ghost-village of  Fabbriche di Careggine lies.

To East,  the Appenines offer such attractions as the canyon of the Orrido di Botri,  pristine mountain lakes such as Lago Santo  and Lago Baccio, as well as several ancient hamlets.  At one of these, San Pellegrino in Alpe,  a museum devoted to the artifacts of daily life will transport you back in time.  Also it is possible to watch and participate in  the husbandry of the land. Facilities for horseback riding, mountain biking and canoeing abound.  You may even bring back samples of  the local woodlands in your basket -- juicy berries, crunchy chestnuts, and the treasured Porcini mushrooms.

Ski enthusiasts can test their skills on the slopes at one of several local resorts such as  L’Abetone, home of  Zeno Colo`, the world's first skiiing champion, and Le Radici.  Both offer alpine or cross-country skiing during the winter, and pleasant trekking during the summer.

Beach lovers can enjoy the sandy stretches and pinelands  of  Viareggio, Forte dei Marmi e Versilia without paying the exhorbitant lodging charges that make them among the most expensive resorts of Europe. Opera lovers will want to take a short detour to Torre del Lago Puccini, located between the sea and the lagoon, to visity the  home of the renown opera composer.

Barga in depth.

The Duomo of Barga .

Barga's cathedral was built during four distinct periods. Constructions began before the year 1000.  During the 12^th century, the church was enlarged and modifiedin the Romanesque style and monofore ( narrow slit windows) in egyptian alabaster, though which a radiant golden light shines were added.  In the 13^th century, the church was enlarged  yet again in keeping with the popular Gothic style of the times.  Characteristic ogive arches windows were incorporated into the church during this renovation. Construction was finally completed between the 1500 and 1600 with the addition of two chapels and the choir.

The cathedral's facade, actually the side wall of the original church, is especially beautiful.  It was built with asymmetric blocks of  local limestone, known as albarese di Barga.  When the cathedralwas renovated and strengthened earlier this century (1927 to1939) special care was taken to preserve the church's original appearance.  Each limestone block was carefully removed, numbered and returned to the original position.  

The main entrance of the cathedral features an ovehanging arch carved with acanthus leaves. The achitrave is embellished with a bas-relief, depicting a grape harvest.  Lions symbolizing the strength of the faith stand atop each of the two columns flanking the entrance. The facade is also adorned by a double row of  small arches carved with human figures, animals,  and other decorations.   The side door, which points toward the Loggia del Podesta`, is  adorned by a bas-relief, attributed to Biduino (1200) representing the Last Supper.

The interior of the duomo has three naves.  The vestibule is a remain of the original 9^th century church and issurrounded by four acquasantiere ( holy water fonts) dating to the 12^th and 13^th century.  To the right is a baptismal font of inlaid white marble. On the wall above, next to the fresco depictung Santa Lucia, is a painting of St. Christopher, patron saint of Barga,attributed to the painter Lucchese Tofanelli (17^th century).

The church has a dividing wall made of shining stone known as jasper, the same stone used to cover the walls of the Cappella dei Principi, in the  Church of  San Lorenzo in Florence.  

The pulpit,  designed and built by Guido Bigiarelli da Como (12^th century) features four supporting column of red marble. The two front columns rest on statues of lions, again symbolizing the strength of the Christian faith.  One of the lions has a dragon underneath, symbolizing evil.  The other depicts a man caressing the lion with one hand while trying to stab it with the other, symbolizing eretics. One of the rear columns rests on the shoulder of a dwarf, symbolizing the pagan world, while the other rests on the floor. At the rear of the pulpit is a bas-relief depicting  the prophet Isaiah's announcing of the coming of the Messiah; on the side facing the main door two more bas-reliefs depict the Annunciation and the birth of Christ; while the remaining side shows the Adoration of the Three Kings and scenes from the Gospel.

The rear of the church features a choir box with an overhead  niche holding an enormous wooden statue of St. Christopher, patron saint of Barga believed to have been carved around the year 1000. Still higher, is an oval glass window from the 14th century showing the Holy Family, of design similar to another existing in the Convent of St. Elizabeth and attributed to Lorenzo di Gredi .

To the sides of  the choir box are two chapels.  The Holy Sacrament Chapel is on the left. Above its altar, a painting of the Holy Virgin, with St. Sebastian and St. Roche on her sides, hangs. This painting was commissioned in 1527 by the people of Barga during a severe epidemic of cholera and has been carefully restored after being found badly neglected in the nearby Church of San Francesco. On the chapel walls, the visitor can also admire  the ciborium of the Holy Oils and  the Adoration of the Child Jesus.

Our Lady’s Chapel is on the right. Above its 6^th century altar in  is a painting of St. Joseph, St. Roche and St. Anthony –the background of which shows Barga in the 5th century. In the painting is inserted a 13^th century wooden fresco of Our Lady of the Mill. On the right wall  is embedded a crucifix made in the Giottoesque style.

From the cathedral belltower the hours ring out, being heard in a radius of several miles. These bells inspired Giovanni Pascoli to write his renown poem L'Ora di Barga.

The Cathedral Square (Arringo)

The Duomo is surronded by a square on three sides. The square, known as Arringo, is cobbled in front of the church  and has a lawn on its sides. From the left side of the square, it is possible to see Barga Giardino and the Appennines. At the square far end  is the Pretorian Palace, now a museum, which in the old times was the residence of the Commissioners and Podesta sent to Barga by the Florentine government. Under the loggierra the visitor can see representations of many coats of arms belonging to various Barga governors and samples of the measures used in those days for weight, volume (staio) and lenght (braccio Barghigiano). A set of steps leads to the underground prisons, today out of use.

From the front of the square, visitors can admire a marvellous panorama, including Barga Castello, the Apuan Alps, going from the Pizzorne highlands to the Pania group to the  Pisanino mountain, several small towns on the opposite side of the valley, and  the river Serchio flowing in the valley below.  To the right, the hamlet of Tiglio and the town of Coreglia Antelminelli can be seen, nested in the the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines.  

The College of Santa Elizabetta

The institution was originally an ancient convent of the Clarisse nuns order, founded in 1456 by the monk Blessed Michael of Barga. The convent contains Robbian artwork including a  polychrome representing the Assumption by Giovanni della Robbia,  a 4th century wooden crucifix, and a round Robbian polychrome showing the Madonna and Child surrounded by fruit and leaves. The convent has recently been transformed into a college, which can board one hundred students, and a rest home.

The Church and Convent of San Francesco outside the walls.

The Convent and church of San Francesco were built in the middle of the 15th century by the monk Blessed Michael of Barga. At the entrance of the convent  is an enclosed cloister while the church features some splendid Robbian works such as a Nativity scene, the stigmatise of San Francesco at Verna, stone simulacrums of St. Anthony the Abbott, St. Andrew and  the Assumption. Such is the level of this artwork that it has been visited even  by the King and Queen of Sweeden (1965). Near the church –arising from an ancient lazar house- is the hospital. Initiated by  Doctor Pietro Talinucci and continued by the people of Barga, both locals and emigres, it has become one of the most modern and well equipped hospitals in the Serchio Valley.

Barga Castello

The hill on which Barga is built is called Remeggio. Surronded by walls, it was enterd through three gates. The roads and streets that originate from the gates and crisscross it were built in accordance with the topographical necessities and for defence in time war. The old houses, many times repaired, around the Arringo, possessed courtyards with gardens and artesian wells.

From the middle ages until the beginning of the 19th century, Barga was an important commercial center communicating with Florence by way of a pass through the Pistoiese mountains. Being voluntarily under Florentine ruling Barga was allowed many privileges, amongst which exemption from imports and exports duties. The commercial richness of Barga was shown in the many impressive palaces built during the 15th, 16th and 17th century. The most important palace, at the center of town, belonged to the Conti Pancrazi and has now  became the Town Hall. Next to it is the Balduini palace, in Piazza Garibaldi, which was bombed and partially destroyed in December 1944.

To the other side, the Florentine influence and culture can easily be noticed in the buildings of Piazza Pietro Angelio ( also known as Aiaccia).  These are the Marchesi Angeli palace, recently restored,  the lovely  Talinucci palace, now the seat of the Pro Loco, and  the Groppi house, built on the remains of an ancient tower.  Other palaces from  the same period can be seen on both sides of  Via di Mezzo, Barga Castello main street,  which connects the Gate of Porta Reale to the gate of Porta Macchiaia. Among those, the  Palazzo Bertacchi, frequently visited by the Grand Dukes of Tuscany and Palazzo Mordini, seat of an important Risorgimental archive.

The old houses of Barga Castello have beautiful front doors –sculptured above in stone- and adorned with coats of arms. The old Teatro Dei Differenti,  built in 1600, and expanded in 1700 to three tiers is about half way along Via di Mezzo. Its acoustic is perfect and is now seat of a summer opera season known as Opera Barga.

The people of  Barga, industrious and with many immigrants, have enriched their city with monuments, palaces, villas, social and philanthropic institutions. Illustrious men have honoured their city –among these Pietro Angelio a famous latin scholar, Antonio Mordini (monument on the Bastione) a politician and patriot, and Alberto Magri a well known painter. Barga has also a large library which is kept up to date with both Italian and foreign literature.

Castelvecchio Pascoli, Colle di Caprona and Pascoli’s House

Giovanni Pascoli, one of the major Italian poets, and his sister Maria,  came to live in Barga during October 1895 from Livorno where he taught at the local Liceo. He bought a villa in the nearby fraction of  Castelvecchio that he enriched  with books and artwork.   He spent the rest of his life in this villa, and at his death, on April 6^th 1912,  he was buried in the chapel next to the house, alongside his beloved sister.

The house still contains a carefully conserved collection of his manuscripts, diplomas and books. In the garden one can see the tree planted by the poet. Under a small column is the tomb of his faithful dog Guli.

Nearby the house, next to the  Parish Church of Castelvecchio dedicated to St. Nicholas, is a monument, supported by four columns of pink marble,work of the sculptor Plinio Nomellini, that was intended originally as a burial place for the poet but now dedicated to the victims of the 1st World War.